Mahler in Amsterdam, 13 May 2025

Another bucket list item ticked off today with here in Amsterdam with a visit to the Rijksmuseum. This is one of the great art galleries of the world, dedicated to Dutch art. We had an excellent guided tour of some highlights (one of which is the building itself) before being let loose to explore.

It was busy but still magnificent, especially being able to see some of the most famous paintings in the world (such as Rembrandts and Vermeers). Rembrandt's famous Night Watch was undergoing restoration, but in a brilliant move this is being done behind a glass wall in full view of the public.

It was lovely to see a small room dedicated to Mahler, and in a flashback to Year 3 history lessons, we saw Dirck Hartogh's original pewter plate which he set up on the coast of Western Australia in 1616.

And tonight's concert in the Concertgebouw Mahler Festival was - yet again - stunning. Iván Fischer and the Budapest Festival Orchestra were back on the stage, and the first half saw them perform Mahler's Kindertotenlieder with mezzo soprano Anna Lucia Richter. This was a deeply moving performance of deeply moving music, a perfect prelude to the orchestra's breathtaking performance of the fifth symphony after interval.

The sheer virtuosity of the players was electrifying, and to my mind Fischer brought this famous but notorious piece to life in a totally satisfying way. The ending was on a knife-edge of terror and joy, and the audience went nuts, deservedly so.

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